Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Honesty and Integrity

Yesterday we returned two days early from our Easter break. After a marvellous two days in Meru National Park, where we'd spotted three cheetahs (a mum and two cubs), a jackal, and a lioness, we'd decided nothing in our drizzly second stopoff could match this, and returned to our own beds and home comforts.   Just as well as it turned out, for unpacking the car at home we discovered we'd left the tent poles behind...  Suspicious minds might suspect sabotage from the less-camping enthusiastic parts of the family, but lets not go there now.

SecondBorn rushed out to chat to the guineapigs, to assure them of our continued affection. They were hungry, with no food nor water in their bowls, despite the generous provisions left with the guards on our departure. I asked for the remaining food back. One solitary carrot and some dry pellets were produced, from what should have been several apples and some seven or eight carrots, enough for two guineapigs for another two days. One of our trusted guards must have taken the guineapig provisions home to eat or sell.

I can understand the impulse, particularly if he feels his own children wouldn't mind an apple or two.  The price of food has risen massively recently.  Guards aren't well paid, though ours get added benefits including a food allowance. But this food was given for the guineapigs, who can't get out of the cage to get their own. It was given in trust, for the animals. I understand the impulse, even the belief that animals matter less than humans, but its stealing to act on it. It makes me furious. As I said in my subsequent pep talk, we try to treat staff well, as family, and you don't steal from your family, particularly if you're a guard.  I can understand all the factors, but it rankles disproportionately. It's about trust not carrots.

I've been told recently of two others in my life, whom I like and trusted, who've taken far bigger missteps from positions of greater power than the above. Staying honest is far more difficult when you need more now, or feel your current affluence is transitory, or feel you deserve something which you haven't been given.  When you don't believe anyone notices that you are in need anyway. The gap in income distribution between the small minority of the rich, and the significant majority of the poor, is massive in Kenya, one of the most unequal countries in the world.  I read last week that I think 57% of Kenyans surveyed have had to cut back on meals at least once in the last year, have been unable to afford the most basic foodstuffs for three daily meals. Again it puts the missing carrots in a different perspective.

And we all like stories with happy endings, a strong narrative arc. I read the Kenyan papers most days, and yes, while many of the items describe the pressures of poverty or mental illness - the father who killed his son with a panga, the mother identified as a witch, the man sentenced to two years hard labour for stealing 4500 KSh (£40) - the in-depth feature attention of the broadsheet journalists, and the readers, focuses on the good luck stories, rags to riches. The student who did well in exams, the internally displaced woman who was lent 130 ksh, (£1.20) as a business start up loan and set up her own chappati making business, which is now thriving.  I'm guilty too. We all want to hear the good news and successes, not the pains, underhand deals and difficulties on the way. Certainly not the stories of those - the vast majority - for whom there are very few silver linings to their clouds, who are stuck, still stuck, maybe ever stuck, in a morass of poverty, unpalatable choices, opportunities blocked. We focus attention, as the Germans put it, on the parsley sprinkled on the top of the potatoes, not on the experiences of the vast majority, the potatoes.  So then there's a great pressure I think, to spin a good yarn, even if its not true, to put yourself on the side of the parsley not the side of the potatoes.  And the more we all focus attention on the good luck stories, fictional, airbrushed or not, the more it estranges the majority from their own day to day experiences, their lived reality.

Don Helder Camera, a Brazilian bishop noted: 'When I give bread to the poor, people call me a saint. When I ask why the poor have no bread, they call me a communist.'  Newspapers, - costing 40 KSh/day, - a family daily income for many in the slums - are by their nature, bought by the affluent.  It's not good business, I'd guess, to startle the horses too much with your analysis.  But I can't help thinking these rags to riches stories perform the function of the lottery in UK, - offer something to dream about, tangible proof that there is a way out of the current day difficulties (for a tiny minority), a sop for the masses, fairydust in February.

Working on student employability in UK I used to segment the 'market'.  Eager beaver students, high performers, sussed, already in action, they'll get jobs anyway. Fun to work with, engaging, great case studies, yes you can help them to up their game, but infact, working with them won't impact on your indicators, they'll find work on their own. Focus attention more on the tail, the reluctant learners, those who struggle, and by helping them achieve what employers need you can make a significant difference, to them and to their life chances.  Here in Kenya, though I advocate for equality of access to our services, the decisions are different.  If you can only work with a few then you work with 'the best'.  There are so many from whom we are already averting our gaze, we focus on those capable of getting our attention, who spin a good line. Like a mother with more children than she can cope with we give up on hopes of equality of opportunity, support to all who need it in measure with their needs, to offer support just to those who push themselves forward.  Where in UK employability work might mean working with those with a youthful conviction for a drug offence, to help with disclosure and telling their story, here my Kenyan colleagues are less forgiving. One strike and you're out. Youthful experimentation and you're out. There are so many we have already chosen not to help, if you misstep, you're out too.

But for me there's more to careers work than helping people get the job, than helping them access the elite university. Here, where so many have had so little parental attention, I am truly discovering the importance of helping people feel centre stage in their lives. Helping them reflect on who they are as an individual and the context in which they grew up. Which are their life stories, their values, the episodes which have made them who they are?  An awareness that might nourish them through their lives. And this matters for all, matters even more for those who maybe won't bask in society's praise, for the reluctant learners, though of course, what they want is help to get a job. 

Telling bedtime stories is one of my favourite bits of motherhood.  When the children were younger, what they loved were stories of When Mummy was a Little Girl (and naughty), and stories from their own salad days, - accounts of the time when Firstborn would play at trains in cardboard boxes with all her stuffed animals behind her, when SecondBorn would make dens from sheets, from throws, from anything, and would sit besheeted, beneath the washing line or between the beanpoles in the garden for hours on end.  Ok, not deeply significant stories maybe, but proof that someone had been watching them.  Caring and treasuring them. Remembering. Proof that what they do and did and how they did it, was significant, mattered, made a difference in the world. 

As a careers advisor here I've found myself drawing on different stories from my past. It's a contentious issue in career guidance, disclosing issues from your own past. The focus is meant to stay entirely on the client.  You really don't want to play the role of the old buffer who never stops telling stories from her own experience, completely alien to the client, distorting the structure of the interview. But I think, here, where my clients have so little access to people with degrees, to foreigners from outside, its acceptable in restrained moderation.   And I find that the stories that I'm disclosing are those painful bits from my past, AntiHero Catrin. In particular my failures. When discussing university application strategies and success rates with individuals, spelling out that 8% success rates mean that 92 highflyers out of a hundred didn't get in to Cornell last year, the client nods dispassionately. Thought bubble, this won't mean me.  But then out pops my story - how I too had been a good student, but how despite that, despite wanting it badly, I didn't get in to Oxford University, and how I cried for three days on hearing the decision.  That its their decision to apply only for highly competitive colleges, but to be aware this is a risky strategy, and here I am, with a good life, but an example that in competitive processes we don't always get what we may feel we deserve.  Look of stunned silence on student face.  Of course, growing up in Kenya, of course they know we don't always get what we want or might deserve.  What I think stunned, repeatedly, was someone in power disclosing her failures. Where she fell short of her ambitions.  A story which tells of a different reality to rags to riches and magic wands, - of fallbacks, contingencies, stepping stones, pick yourself up, dust yourself down, snort loudly into the disintegrating tissue and on we go.

For some students it's a revelation that in the eyes of others, outside, to have stayed honest, to have performed well, when you grew up in a rural village where most people were illiterate, and you went to a less-favoured regional school without many books or any computers, this is a major achievement.  It's reframing what success means, to something personal. With the cards that you have been dealt, your life has been a major success. You can be truly proud. Don't look at those more fortunate and judge yourself by their glittering prizes, what you have done, with your cards, is significant success.  It's about being there, being present in your life and choices. And about analysis too. About asking why the poor have no bread, why your regional school has no books. About analysing and questioning society's views of success and how it represents them, and about speaking up on our stories, our missteps, saying sorry, putting right, acknowledging painful realities, making it possible for others to speak of their pains.

Quakers believe that all of life is sacramental, that each moment of each day is God-given. While I can believe that for my own, mostly fortunate, life, I have difficulties with that testimony here, where so many have such difficult lives and choices.  I wouldn't want to say it to others, less fortunate.  But what it does mean for me is that it matters that we tell our difficult stories and struggles, at the right time, if it feels appropriate.  That we don't airbrush out the less palatable hard parts, that it isn't just the highs, the successes, the sunny uplands of which we should tell, but also the dilemmas, the griefs, the absent fathers, the university rejections, the jobs we just couldn't hack, the tussles with children, the unsalubrious jobs in credit control and cleaning student flats of maggots, the, at times, frantic paddling beneath the water.  I think of my friend here who sometimes works as a prostitute to meet her children's school fees.  If this is her reality it matters that she has someone with whom to share it. Someone who's willing to listen on equal terms, not as a social worker, but as a friend who's had unpalatable choices too, though not of this magnitude.  We're not peddling snake ointment and myths here, we're sharing life experiences, and we're making sure we're leaving in some of our key learning points, the authentic bits of the recipe which might really make a difference for others, even if they don't always show us in our best light. 

Sunday, April 17, 2011

Pieta


Benson's grandson, still unnamed, died last night, aged a week old.

Benson phoned early this morning to let us know.  He phoned too because all the family money had had to go on settling the hospital bills to release his grandson's body. He, his grieving son and his baby grandson were stranded in Kisumu, unable to get home as they no longer had any busfare.  I mpesad what funds there were on my phone, and more as the Palm Sunday shops slowly opened.

Tragically, some situations just can't be saved.  I understand that.  But we live in a world where humanity has chosen to spend money on placing men on the moon; on waging trillion dollar wars.  All the while in Kenya, 121 children of every 1000 born, die before their fifth birthday.  In UK the parallel statistic is 6 children.

Children die in UK too. The Millenium Development Goals are really focussing minds, and budgets, on childhood and maternal mortality. But each loss, preventable or not, is a lifelong tragedy for a family.  And here, standing close to the loss of this much-loved child, I've been made so aware how the pressures on a stressed family are increased by the necessary sums, the financial calculations which families here have to go through. What can we do? How much can we afford? How will we manage afterwards?

His funeral is tomorrow. God bless him and his family. 

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Who is My Neighbour?

B, our part time cook, has had a very bad few months by anyone’s standards. His wife got typhoid. His part-time jobshare let him go. His house burnt down with all his belongings in it. And now, after the joyful birth of his third grandchild a week ago, the babe is failing to thrive. Has lost weight dramatically. Has lost sucking reflex. Is crying all the time.
Yesterday the dad took the newborn babe to the local district hospital, in Mbale.

‘We can’t treat him here, he needs to go, several hours away, to Kisumu.’

Stressed phonecalls to B, in Nairobi, 8 hours away. B is the only member of the extended family in employment. One wife, 2 adult sons (and their wives and three children), and three daughters in high school, all depending on B’s part time wage in a land without social security.

Last night B’s son was in howling distress on the phone. To check into Kisumu hospital you need to provide a deposit. No one was clear how much. At least 10,000 KSh, £90, B reckoned. No one had that money. Was it worth Dad and stricken babe, in extremis, boarding the overnight bus to travel several hours, without it? So B spelled it all out to me, and hotfoot via the bank, we loaned him the money.

Today, palefaced, B updated the situation. The babe is now on an incubator, with a drip. But the total deposit had been 27,000 KSh, - some £250. Back I go to the bank.

This morning, L, our housekeeper, filled in more of the gaps. Mbale hospital, the district hospital from which they were sent, is in a poor position. Has, for confused reasons - ?failure to pay bills – no water at all, ever. Families of patients must arrive with their own water in tow. And yes, you must first pay a deposit to access treatment in a hospital. You pay your money, receive a receipt, and show the receipt before any test or interaction.

I truly wish the babe and family well. I realize they have no one else with money in their circles. I trust B, our cook, I value his integrity, I want to help out. I can’t walk by on the other side when, without medical knowledge, it seems that a life is at stake.

I know it’s ignoble, but I’ve also totted up how much extra we’ve contributed to our part time employee in the last few months. 3 saucepans, a set of crockery, a duvet, sheets and some towels, a lilo and pump, four sets of clothes, some shoes, and the proceeds of a cash whip-round at the time of the fire. 1000 bob to help towards the doctor’s fees for his wife. 15,000 KSh, £130, towards the term’s fees at high school for the three daughters, after the fire, when it became clear that without extra contribution, at least one of them would have to stay out of school. And now loans of 24,000 Ksh, £230, to help out the grandson, - and a sense that this might just be the beginning. We pay generous wages for what B does and contribute too towards his transport costs each month. But we watch his distress at the claims and the real demands on him, to which without external help he will not be able to rise.

Trying to get the second installment of cash from the cash-point on a Friday afternoon, it all fell apart, as slick transactions often do here. The cash machine spat out the receipt, saying it had issued 20,000 KSh, but gave me not a bean. No handy notice on the machine ‘in case of malfunction please phone..’ Blank-faced security guards. No branch of the bank in the mall. In the end I walked to the nearest branch, tried to lodge a report. Got waved from pillar (the reception) to post (the customer service point) via the priority business counter. No one would take a report. ‘You need to contact your (foreign) bank to sort this out’ though this had been their bank’s ATM, and we have a local account with their branch too. I was hot, I was bothered, I was flustered, and I was trying to get the cash to Kisumu, fast, to help the babe. And in the end I just saw red.

‘This cash is not for myself, nor for my child, nor my employee’s child. It’s to help a sick child in Kisumu hospital, who is nothing to do with me. It’s a charitable donation because I’ve been asked and am stepping up. This isn’t my country. This actually isn’t anything to do with me. And you, who are paid by this bank to sort out problems, this bank which is my bank too, are all refusing to even take a report so one day, this problem, of your ATM’s making, might be sorted out by someone else. I can’t say how angry that makes me.’

B says, heavily, ‘God will manage all. It’s in his hands.’ I respect his acceptance. But I see it more as about what we do, what we are willing to take on, help out with, live up to, with whom we are willing to identify. Yet today I feel sulky, resentful, overburdened, overstretched, a mulish Jonah under the fig tree turning her face from what she’s being asked to do. Who me? Not me Lord. We're surrounded by need all around. Today, I feel we’ve done enough, for now. This is one of our employees, I care for him, but the others are requesting support too, though at lesser levels, - and the wider community. What is realistic? Where can I draw appropriate limits, when today the need is so clear, but I feel overstretched? What would I ask for from my kindly boss in the UK? Maybe a fiver if my purse had been stolen, to help me buy lunch and to pay back next morning.

But chatting to a school mum friend whom I really respect today, she told me what they have done this week. How a friend in another country, a supplier to their business, but no one to whom they have clear responsibility, had let slip how he had cancer, tumors on major organs. How her husband had phoned the consultant to understand the situation. Had requested a costing of treatment here, and the alternatives. And had stepped in, to fund and arrange chemotherapy, flights and hotel for the friend and his wife in India. Had stepped up to sort out the visas. And made nothing of it. As she said,

‘The cancer is far gone. Most likely this won’t help much. But it matters to my husband that he does what he can for a friend. That he gives it his best shot.’

And that’s really it. B didn’t hesitate when I said we’d give the money as a loan, not a present, though he did gulp and it’s a massive amount for him to pay back. He wants to give his grandson his best shot. It matters to make possible what we can in relationships. It matters to raise the bar. This feeling of feeling overstretched, this is the Kenyan experience. This is to walk in B’s shoes, as he juggles part payments of school fees with trips back home with gradually furnishing his rebuilt house in Kangemi, sole wageearner in the family.

And, as I write, an email pops up on screen. A UK friend has read my facebook status, is offering to pay the check-in charges. And this truly is about being a good neighbour, - going out of her way for a babe and a family she knows not at all - but creating those links of love which make the sun emerge from behind clouds in a sometimes bleak world.

Sunday, April 10, 2011

A Boy's Life

It's the school holidays. We've been in Nairobi and for a week at the coast. And I've been reflecting on the different experiences for 8 year old SecondBorn, compared to our earlier UK holiday times.

Picking SecondBorn up from a playdate last week, the host mum was a little sheepish.
'Umm, I'm afraid he may have seen a goat being killed. Sorry, I know that's something some parents feel sensitive about, but hope it's ok.' 
While it's not something any of us would have planned, well, here in Africa, it is part of life.  It was the host mum's birthday, and they'd given a (live) goat to the house staff, so that the staff could have a celebration too.  Nice idea, - but not one which had previously dawned on me. My previously proffered slices of birthday cake now revealed as clearly rather inadequate. Whole panoramas of new social niceties. Arghh.

But gifts of live goats are more common in the expat community than one might imagine.  Right in the middle of the Nairobi summer one of our milk sachets split in the car. Days later when my cleaning had proven unequal to the task, the car smelt decidedly ripe for the afternoon lift rota. FirstBorn's worldly friend noted,
'It smells like our pickup did, when we brought the goat back with us from Nanyuki (3 hours drive away) to pay off the bet my Dad lost with his friend!' 
Ok, so not a smell which can be swept under the carpet, or brushed over with all windows open. Powerful spur for immediate, more energetic elbowgrease.

SecondBorn and his friend were clearly not traumatised by the encounter with the goat. Far from it. Over the supper table SecondBorn, normally a taciturn lad, started at the top, and ran through it all. How the goat hadn't bleated - mouth gagged. How the legs had been tied. The colour of the meat when the skin was taken off. The colour of the intestines, how long they'd been, how examination of the stomach had revealed what the goat had last been eating (grass). An impression for a mother, of two small boys gobstruck and completely mesmerised by experiences previously beyond their ken. And, if we're honest, beyond hers too. And in this land where we frequently pass five and six year old boys armed with a branch, responsible for a full flock of goats, their grazing that day, and the flock's safe return that night, well maybe not a premature experience.

At the coast, at 10 and 6, families of monkeys staked out our cottage.  Windows open all around, canny monkeys, in through one window, out through the door.
'Oh look, that monkey's eating what looks like a beigel.'
It IS a beigel. Our (former) beigel.  As the cottage owners told us, 'Monkeys are like humans. They like bread, cakes, fruits, vegetables. Don't leave anything out.'
But it was too hot for total lockdown. Felt a bit like an episode from The Birds. Lowering monkeys, nonchalent in the grass, essentially teenage hoodlums in hoodies.  Until the arrival of the cavalry. The compound's guards, armed with rubber catapults. 'Oh wow' yelled SecondBorn, and disappeared for an hour, till well after dark.

And returned, all aglow, after we'd made a worried second circuit of the site to find him.  He'd apprenticed himself to the guards, been allowed to shoot small pebbles at the monkeys, to have a go with the bow and arrow. Spent an hour being a teenage hoodlum himself, or a trusty protecting the family from the intruders, depending on your perspective.

On our way back we stopped overnight at a posh lodge on the banks of the Tsavo river just outside the national park. Pancakes for breakfast by the river. Saved by SecondBorn to eat the best last. Mad dash by another, solitary, monkey - grabs both SecondBorn's pancakes from his plate and retreats. Upset from the neighbouring German tour group. Sorrowful SecondBorn. Until our kindly elderly waiter appears bearing a rubber catapult JUST like the one at the coast. Miraculous beams from SecondBorn, who rushes off to parade it, brandish it, and then aim and fire it at the monkey. Ouch. Revenge.

Watching the muttering from the newly arrived German tour group I became aware how much my perspective has changed. Monkeys, yes, good shots for photos. Sweet in their ways. But, outside a national park, essentially vermin. Fair game for a catapult if they're being predatory in the same way as rats would be.  But for the tourists, SecondBorn, worse his hands-off parents, were hoodlums, spoiling their photos, terrorising the poor sweet exotic animals in the wild. Oh dear. Rapid retreat, clasping catapult booty to bosum, reputations in tatters.  You can't win them all.

Friday, April 1, 2011

Cinders, You shall go to the ball

In 1970s ProvincialTown South Wales we were far from the cultural heart of the nation.  Cultural backwater might be overstating the reality. I grew up in an avidly theatre going family, we made it to Stratford too, but we were reconciled to the fact that from Christmas Eve to mid April, what our local theatre, the Swansea Grand, showed, was pantomime.  Through the sodden winter, packed coaches with steamed up windows came down the valleys with scout packs and rugby clubs, womens institutes and school trips, from Ammanford and Llanelli, Pontypridd and Upper Cwm Twrch. We gazed at bearded pirates appearing in blue smoke, slight blonde actresses in sparkling dresses.  'He's behind you.' 'Oh no he isn't.' 'Oh yes he is.' And 'Cinders, you shall go to the ball'.   But, hard hearted cynic, SomewhatMoreSophisticate, I've been surprised to discover that these archetypes have bloomed here, have proved surprisingly meaningful for my life here in Kenya.

Driving home alone on unlit suburban quiet roads after a Girls Night Out which has gone on a tad too long. Anxiety about carjackers. That beating heart feeling of wolves under the bed. A nagging fear you know is unlikely, highly unlikely even, but is just about possible in the nether reaches of the night.  'He's behind you' I hear the rugby club from my childhood shouting. 

And now for some of my students at BigCorporate, another moment has come.  Willy Wonka's Golden Ticket which gives the chocolate factory to underfed, povertystricken Charlie Bucket. Cinderella, the undervalued scullery maid, whose value is recognised by the handsome prince - and then by all around her. 'Cinders you shall go to the ball.' Fanfare. Finale. Bow.  Last bus home.  The last college decision letters are winging in this week from American colleges.  We've had multiple acceptances from Harvard, Yale, Amherst, Cornell, Princeton, Duke, U Penn, Williams, U Pittsburgh.  And many other students, with pale faces, waiting, hoping. 

For me, its not about the Big Names of the colleges. It's not about potential futures as investment bankers.  It's about these young people feeling deeply valued, for some for the first time, feeling recognised, coming into their dominion.  Its about the generosity of spirit of a system, in another country, which offers scholarships, full scholarships, which make it possible for bright young people from truly poverty stricken difficult difficult backgrounds to access the education they deserve. That they have slogged for, worked hard for, - but in Kenya that means nothing.  Some, though youthful high flyers, only managed to get to secondary school by chance encounters, by last minute sponsorship.  Most have known that fear at the end of the term that the fees won't be found for next term. Have had to sit out weeks at home, while the extended family scrabbles together to put down this term's deposit.  But here, for a moment, everything comes right. The world rocks on its axis, and for a few, a minority, they may access what they deserve.  Thank you US college alumni, thank you.  You may never know how much it means here, but truly, these are miracles for me, for my students, for people around me. 

Bubbling over with news last night, I rushed into a friends to pick up SecondBorn from his playdate. Listen, listen, our student from Dandora, a very difficult slum on Nairobi's rubbish dump and toxic waste dump, has been offered full scholarships to both Yale and Harvard.  And watched her housekeeper's expression, as she too wiped away a tear, thinking of the difference this will make, not just for an individual, but for a family, a community.

After a few months here one of our kids' UK whines fell silent. No longer heard, 'It's not fair'.  Not to say that they don't whine, don't beat each other up, don't come running with tales of another injustice. But have stopped qualifying it with 'its not fair'. Because here, often, it so patently isn't fair, why would we, the fortunate, complain of our lot?  I get that college admissions aren't Fair.  It's a golden bullet. Some of my truly impressive students, with the greatest self awareness, with motivation and resilience light years beyond my UK students, with most moving, honest essays and the best SAT scores, have had rejections from all 8 colleges.  As their advocate, their guidance counsellor, I want to holler, It isn't fair.  But for some, today, it has been a miracle, and for that, lets give out loud, heartfelt, honest thanks.