Not Plain Sailing

We were off for a short break in rural Laikipia.  Some six hours drive from Nairobi but we'd planned ahead. Broke up the longish drive by staying overnight halfway, had printed off the driving instructions. So of course it would all be plain sailing for the last few hours of the journey, into the 63,000 acre conservancy.

Two hours drive from our overnight stay we hadn't passed a single car.  We'd gone over rivers, through fords. And then the road ran out by the river. Or rather the road continued uphill. But the key bit, over the major river, had been washed away. Comprehensively gone.

River too deep to ford. 

No mobile phone coverage. No signs.

Two hours difficult drive back to town where there would be mobile phone coverage.  Literally in the middle of nowhere. One of Laikipia's high points are its wildlife. Lions, leopards.

Fortunately Tom has a good sense of direction. We drove 15km along the river. Found some tire tracks and followed them.  30 miles further on, met a man, who gave us directions.  100 miles further on got to our lodge.

I've written before about finding the way in Kenya.  http://www.onthethresholdafrica.blogspot.com/2011/02/street-names-and-structures.html   Its not that I'm good at it in UK. But I can follow a map.  Follow a diversion sign or rock. Don't think its much to ask - when there aren't any streets, street names, people, or signposts, - when the road's been washed away three weeks before - to have a small indication what you might do next. 

But in Kenya if you're driving you tend to know where you're going. The transfer drivers, the matatu drivers, the guides - they've all been there before. They know the secret signs - turn left at the cattle enclosure 50 km before the gate - and short cuts. Most others - the office back room staff responsible for customer relations - travel in the transfer bus, don't need to think how they get there.  Now we know how to get there too. But it ain't half stressful the first time.